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created 2003-03-28 00:05:31

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Some of Eastern Europe is becoming alive with tourists from the West rushing in to take advantage of cheap flights, cheap beer and cheap beer, but so much of it is still making the slow transition from Communism to Capitalism, and doesn't necessarily offer itself willingly to the holidaygoer. That said, a bit of effort and much ad-hoccing, and you'll find some fantastic people, breathtaking places and amazing culture that really opens your eyes.

Main places we visited: Prague, Budapest, Sighisoara and Brasov in Romania, Sofia and Rila Monastery in Bulgaria, Split and Dubrovnik in Croatia, and then Budapest again. Ogulin, Bucharest and Belgrade all deserve special mentions too.

Eastern Europe, September 2004

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0010-Prague_Metro.jpg
Prague Metro station, refreshingly clean of adv...
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0020-Powder_Gate.jpg
You can't miss Powder Gate, really.
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0030-Moo_Cow.jpg
There were lots of cows in Prague. This is one ...
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0040-Railway.jpg
A run-down kind of railway station.
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0060-No_Guns_or_Ice_Cream.jpg
No phones. No ice cream. No guns. Tchah.
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0070-Praha_Masarykovo_Station.jpg
This is one of Prague's 4 main stations, with a...
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0080-Tram.jpg
Trams are good. I like trams.
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0090-Lamped_Shadow.jpg
Mmm, arty.
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0100-Doorway_Detail.jpg
I can't find what this building's called, but i...
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0110-Doorway_Detail.jpg
This is to the side of the previous photo...
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0140-Cathedral_on_the_Hill.jpg
Big bloody cathedral that we'll be visiting lat...
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0150-NTK.jpg
One for the geeks.
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0151-River_Vltava.jpg
Pretty river.
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0160-Charles_Bridge_Statue.jpg
I think this might have been the cleanest of th...
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0160-Charles_Bridge_Statue_Detail_bw.jpg
Close-up of the cherub thingy.
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0161-Band_on_the_Bridge.jpg
Some busking people, who were ok I think.
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0163-Gas_Masks.jpg
Go to the seedy shops and this is the kind of t...
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0165-Tram.jpg
Different tram.
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0166-Arches.jpg
We went past this spot a thousand times and I s...
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0167-Archway_Light.jpg
Walking under one of the towers, possibly even ...
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0168-Painted_House.jpg
This was on the way to our hostel - the buildin...
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0170-Prague_Station_Stairs.jpg
Going to find tickets in Prague Station.
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0180-Prague_Station_Outside_bw.jpg
Crazy mad architecture outside Prague Station.
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0190-Praha_Hlavni_Station.jpg
Better view of the station.
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0200-Burger_Stall.jpg
Lots of places to buy burgers and coke from, bu...
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0210-Street_Art.jpg
Bizarre street art, view 1.
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0230-Street_Art_2.jpg
Bizarre street art, view 2.
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0231-Fusion.jpg
Scary Russian doll, Museum of Communism and Tot...
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0232-Little_Gardening_Cart.jpg
Heheh, the man drives around and waters plants ...
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0234-Statues_by_Old_Town_Square.jpg
Some old guys watching over Prague's Old Town S...
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0235-Old_Town_Square_Flowers.jpg
Pretty flowers, nice day.
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0236-Tyn_Church.jpg
View from up the clock tower - everyone has to ...
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0237-One_of_Many.jpg
Prague has a billion spires, you see.
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0240-Tower_Stairs_bw.jpg
Crazy black and white shot looking back down th...
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0260-Tower_Stairs.jpg
Watching people come up to see the view from th...
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0290-Door_Detail.jpg
I want a door like this when I'm a lecturer.
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0300-Street.jpg
All streets outside the UK so clean you can lic...
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0380-Dancer.jpg
Bet you can't tell which is me and which is the...
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0390-Moo_Cows.jpg
More moo moos.
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0400-Odd_Building.jpg
No idea what this place is, but it looks really...
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0401-Boats.jpg
Big boats to take you up and down the River Vlt...
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0410-Metronome_bw.jpg
The spike in the background is a giant metronom...
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0411-Bridges_over_Vltava.jpg
Oooh, pretty pretty.
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0412-Julie_and_Prague_Castle.jpg
Julie indicates our onwards progression towards...
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0413-Pillars.jpg
There was this big building that I quite liked ...
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0414-Greenhouse.jpg
I think this was a greenhouse, but now I'm not ...
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0416-Changing_of_the_Guard.jpg
Apparently the guards don't like having their p...
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0440-Fountain_Square.jpg
This is the first thing you see when you enter ...
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0450-Archway.jpg
Through the archway is St. Vitus' Cathedral. I ...
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0460-St_Vitus_Cathedral_Entrance.jpg
The entrance to St. Vitus' Cathedral, which onl...
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0460-St_Vitus_Cathedral_Entrance_Detail_bw.jpg
Close-up so you can see the detail.
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0470-St_Vitus_Cathedral.jpg
Even this doesn't get across just how gorgeous ...
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0480-Gargoyles.jpg
Outside the toilets, looking up.
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0481-Inside_Cathedral.jpg
Light plays an important part, especially with ...
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0490-Cathedral_Organ.jpg
I managed to sneak this poor photo of the cathe...
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0491-St_Vitus_Cathedral.jpg
The golden gate on the side is called the Golde...
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0500-Wavy_Roof_bw.jpg
I liked the crazy lines going on here.
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0510-Prague_Rooftops.jpg
Looking out over Prague.
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0511-Steps_bw.jpg
People walking up to the castle, and a busker t...
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0550-Fountain_Detail.jpg
We sat by this fountain-that-you-can't-see for ...
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0570-Overlooking_Prague.jpg
View from the first stage of the Petrin Tower.
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0571-Overlooking_Prague.jpg
View from near the top of the Petrin Tower, ove...
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0572-Down_from_Petrin_Tower.jpg
View back down to the ground from the top of th...
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0574-Overlooking_Prague.jpg
Another look over Prague from the top of the Pe...
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0640-Tree_bw.jpg
Sunny day in a Prague Park.
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0650-Trees.jpg
I think we fell asleep here for a while.
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0651-Sundown.jpg
The start of a romantic evening in Prague.
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0652-Sundown_on_the_Castle.jpg
Looking back as the Sun goes down on Prague Cas...
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0653-Leaving_Prague.jpg
Our first train ride - all excited.
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0670-Sunset_by_Train.jpg
View from the train window as we zip towards Bu...
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0710-Budapest_Cafe_View.jpg
We hadn't had much sleep due to a smelly man on...
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0740-Hosok_Tere.jpg
At the end of Andrassy Avenue is Hosok Tere, wh...
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0760-Building.jpg
I think this is the Palace of Art, next to Hosok Tere.
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0770-Across_Hosok_Tere.jpg
The Museum of Fine Arts, as confirmed by this near-identical photo.
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0780-Strange_Sculpture.jpg
We found this odd-looking wooden sculpture in a...
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0790-Ivy-Covered_House.jpg
A chateau covered in ivy.
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0830-Budapest_Train_Tickets.jpg
The ticket office at Budapest Station wasn't ex...
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0850-Stairway.jpg
I kind of like this stairway design, next to a ...
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0870-Liszt_Statue.jpg
Did Liszt really have huge huge fingers?
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0880-Julie_through_Art.jpg
More street art, featuring Julie this time.
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0900-Budapest_Station.jpg
Somewhat knackered, we waited a couple of hours...
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0910-Budapest_Station.jpg
They have a cool clock at Budapest Station.
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0920-Sighisoara-View_from_Bathroom.jpg
Burg Hostel, Sighisoara, Romania. View from (posh) bathroom out into the courtyard.
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0921-Julie_in_Sighisoara.jpg
Julie standing at the edge of the old medieval ...
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0930-Oberth_Diagram_1.jpg
Design #1 by Herman Oberth, space dreamer. Depicts some kind of spacesuit.
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0940-Oberth_Diagram_2.jpg
Design #2 by Herman Oberth, space dreamer. Depicts some kind of space module.
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0950-Space_Picture.jpg
Picture showing what humans landing on another ...
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0960-Hermann_Oberth_Bust.jpg
The man himself. In bust form.
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0970-Sighisoara_Rooftops.jpg
Romania has a great selection of pinkish rooftops. The building (now a restaurant) with tables in front was the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler - more info.
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0980-Sighisoara_Rooftops.jpg
Overlooking more of the old town from atop Turn...
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0990-Sighisoara_Rooftops.jpg
Kind of odd. Fairytale like. But so close to mo...
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1000-Me_and_Rooftops.jpg
Just to prove I was there...
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1020-Some_House.jpg
There are still some people living in the old t...
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1040-Dog_in_the_Shade_bw.jpg
Woof woof.
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1050-Scara_Scolarilor.jpg
Scara Scolarilor, or School Staircase. There's,...
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1060-Stairs_Inside.jpg
View down from inside the Scara Scolarilor. It'...
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1080-Sighisoara_Rooftops.jpg
More Sighisoara rooftops - we saw a lot of thes...
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1090-Turnul_cu_Ceas.jpg
This is the tower ("Turnul cu Ceas") we were up...
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1110-Julie_in_Archway.jpg
A small archway as Julie wanders off.
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1140-Turnul_cu_Ceas.jpg
A better photo of the Turnul cu Ceas, containin...
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1140-Turnul_cu_Ceas_Detail.jpg
Tower rooftops in Eastern Europe are always rea...
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1141-Alleyway.jpg
An arty shot of an alleyway thing in Sighisoara.
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1142-Julie_in_International_Cafe.jpg
We found a small cafe in Sighisoara called Inte...
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1143-Sighisoara_Housing.jpg
More housing in-use.
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1144-Sighisoara_Window.jpg
Someone's window. I'm glad they didn't see me a...
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1160-Sighisoara_Station.jpg
Some cowboys look on while we wait for the trai...
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1161-Sighisoara_Station.jpg
Everything seems to run off big hulking diesel ...
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1170-Passenger_bw.jpg
I'd like to know where he was going to.
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1180-Piata_Sfatului_in_Brasov.jpg
This photo looks like Julie and some buildings ...
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1210-Biserica_Ortodoxa_Sf_Nicolae.jpg
An Orthodox church at the edge of Brasov, still...
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1220-Me_with_Black_Spires.jpg
That's me you can just make out there.
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1230-Wall_Paintings.jpg
A shame, the walls must have looked quite somet...
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1231-Tomb.jpg
I'm not quite sure who's tomb this was now.
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1235-Cross_and_Buildings.jpg
This is next to the Orthodox church.
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1236-Romanian_Roof.jpg
Julie spotted this rooftop as we were entering ...
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1237-Romanian_Roofs.jpg
See? Lots of roofs.
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1238-Power_Station.jpg
On the way to Bran Castle, there's this delapid...
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1239-Bran_Castle_Window_bw.jpg
Black and white arty shot of some windows in Bran Castle.
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1241-Secret_Staircase.jpg
Going up a tiny little carved-out staircase in ...
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1242-Window_View.jpg
Hmmm, you can't see it very well, but there are...
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1243-Bran_Library.jpg
A small corner of a (relatively) large room hol...
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1243-Bran_Library_Detail_bw.png
This photo makes the library look grittier :)
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1244_Bran_Windows_bw.png
There are lots of balconies with small wooden w...
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1245-Looking_Up.jpg
Looking up to the top of Bran Castle.
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1246-Cool_Lock_bw.png
I like this lock, but I'm not sure why. Proper ...
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1247-Looking_Across.jpg
Bran Castle would be a great place to play hide...
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1248-From_Outside.jpg
Looking back up from Bran Castle. Apparently there's a secret passage into the castle around here somewhere...
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1251-Watermelons.jpg
A street market in Rasnov.
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1252-Rasnov_Street.jpg
Looking up a street in Rasnov towards Rasnov Ca...
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1253-View.jpg
Looking back down as we climb up the hill towar...
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1254-View_from_Rasnov.jpg
Looking out over Romania.
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1255-View_from_Rasnov.jpg
You can't quite see it in this photo, but the C...
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1256-Me_at_Rasnov.jpg
Me, sitting atop Romania.
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1257-Through_the_Window.jpg
Peering through a window in one of the Rasnov t...
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1258-Outside_Rasnov.jpg
Looking back at Rasnov from the car park.
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1260-David_Lynch_Hotel.jpg
This is the hotel we stayed at in Brasov, which...
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1261-Bucuresti_Trains.jpg
Bucuresti (Bucharest) Station, where we stopped...
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1262-Bucuresti_Recycling_Bin.jpg
They do have these cool recycling bins though.
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1263-Leaving_Bucuresti.jpg
Bye bye to Bucuresti...
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1264-Dusk.jpg
Overnight travel into Bulgaria, where they have...
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1266-View_from_Apartment.jpg
The view from the kitchen of an apartment we st...
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1270-Statue_in_Sofia_City_Garden.jpg
Not sure who this guy is supposed to be.
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1280-Sofia_Fountain.jpg
We spent a fair bit of time in Sofia City Garde...
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1290-Sofia_Fountain.jpg
You can't see, but there are huge groups of old...
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1300-Fountain.jpg
Weird, I thought this was in Prague, not Sofia.
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1310-Water_Patterns.jpg
Staring into the City Garden water...
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1320-St_Nikolai_Russian_Church.jpg
First church we saw in Sofia. Note the amazingl...
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1330-Aleksander_Nevski_Church.jpg
The main church in Sofia, with breathtaking internals.
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1340-Julie_and_Flowers.jpg
Taking in the flowers before grabbing something...
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1350-Flowers_and_Bike.jpg
Another view of the flowers in front of Sofia's National Gallery for Foreign Art.
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1370-Fields_from_Bus.jpg
On our way to Rila Monastery, a UNESCO site.
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1390-Town_from_Bus.jpg
The bus ride to Rila was something like 4 hours, after we worked out how to get there.
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1430-Rila_Stairs.jpg
Looking up at a staircase in Rila Monastery.
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1460-Rila_Chapel.jpg
The incredibly-arched entrance to the chapel at Rila.
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1470-Chapel_Artwork.jpg
All of the walls and arches and ceilings surrou...
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1480-Rila.jpg
Looking down on the Rila chapel, with the mount...
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1490-Walkway.jpg
Looking along one of Rila's walkways, next to t...
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1500-Rila.jpg
Another view of Rila chapel, as the black-clad ...
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1511-Monkey_Shop.jpg
A shop with a monkey back in Sofia. There are l...
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1512-Fruit_and_Veg_Stalls.jpg
The fruit and veg sellers in Sofia pack up for ...
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1513-Sofia_Phone.jpg
2600 Collection #1. An alien-looking phone at Sofia station.
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1520-Sofia_Monument.jpg
This huge construction in Sofia is the 1300th Anniversary Monument, I think.
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1530-Graffiti.jpg
The Monument seemed to be boarded up, maybe undergoing repair work, which gave space for some awesome graffiti.
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1550-Graffiti.jpg
More graffiti around the 1300th Annoversary Mon...
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1560-Graffiti_and_Monument.jpg
Yet more graffiti around the 1300th Annoversary...
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1562-Ogulin.jpg
Ogulin bus station, where we were told we had t...
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1563-Split_Harbour.jpg
Slightly enhanced picture of a couple of boats ...
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1570-Dubrovnik_Fountain_Detail_bw.jpg
Close up of one pipe of a huge round fountain (the Onophrian or Reservoir fountain) that you see when entering the old town in Dubrovnik.
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1580-Julie_in_Dubrovnik_Lanes.jpg
Julie by an art gallery in the twisty back lane...
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1581-Dubrovnik_Housing.jpg
There are loads of these twisting alleys, with ...
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1610-Cat_in_Shade.jpg
There are plenty of cats in the old town too.
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1620-Washing_Line.jpg
A small square tucked away in the Dubrovnik lanes.
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1621-Cat.jpg
A Dubrovnik cat chews on a tasty piece of meat.
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1640-Clock_Tower.jpg
This clock tells you the time in two different ...
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1650-Clock_Workings.jpg
The old interior of a clock as shown in the Dub...
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1660-Clock_Workings_bw.jpg
Old clock interiors in black and white.
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1670-Divine_Providence_Detail.jpg
An unexpected sighting of the Eye of Providence in Dubrovnik's barely-redecorated Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin.
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1671-Julie_by_Fountain.jpg
Julie and pigeons by a Dubrovnik fountain.
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1672-Me_having_Lunch.jpg
Mmm, lunchy-muchy!
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1673-Dubrovnik_Harbour.jpg
Me welcoming all the tourists to Dubrovnik Harb...
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1674-People_Looking.jpg
What are they looking at? Fish?
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1675-Through_the_Wall.jpg
Looking down on the harbour through a hole.
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1676-Dubrovnik_Harbour.jpg
Looking down on Dubrovnik Harbour.
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1677-Football.jpg
Some kids playing football up against tourists/...
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1678-Football_Detail.png
Close up.
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1679-Dubrovnik_Sundown.jpg
Sun going down over the Dubrovnik Sea.
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1681-View_back.jpg
The view back to Dubrovnik as we head out towar...
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1682-Dirty_Great_Liner.jpg
On our way out to Lokrum, we almost hit this di...
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1683-Lokrum_Phone.jpg
2600 Collection #2. An alien-looking phone on Lokrum island.
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1684-Lokrum_Peacock.jpg
A peacock in the Lokrum Botanical Garden.
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1685-Cactus_and_Snail.jpg
Close-up shot of some crazy cacti things.
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1686-Lagoon.jpg
Julie goes for a swim in the "Dead Sea" lagoon....
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1720-Twisted_Tree.jpg
A mad, twisty tree.
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1730-Us_on_Lokrum.jpg
:)
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1731-Peacocks.jpg
Two peacocks!
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1740-Dubrovnik_Harbour.jpg
The main harbour in Dubrivnik, from where all t...
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1741-Leaving_Dubrovnik_by_Ferry.jpg
Leaving Dubrovnik, without train tickets this t...
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1751-Sundown_on_Ferry.jpg
Watching the Sun go down from the ferry.
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1752-Arty_Shot.jpg
As the journey nears its end.
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1770-Bladerunner_Lift.jpg
This lift outside our Budapest hostel reminded me of Sebastian's place in Bladerunner, oddly.
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1780-Postboxes.jpg
Some Communist postboxes...
(original - 138k)
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1790-Budapest_Building.jpg
Cool photo of some posh place in Budapest - a h...
(original - 140k)
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1800_Eagle_on_Castle_Hill_bw.png
Moody shot of a large Eagle statue on Castle Hi...
(original - 273k)
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1810-Fishermens_Bastion.jpg
Fishermen's Bastion, on the Buda side of town.
(original - 171k)
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1820-Looking_Down_on_Budapest.jpg
I think this is the Szechenyi Chain Bridge bein...
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1840-Szechenyi_Chain_Bridge.jpg
Some people enjoying the sights and the alcohol...
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1850-Paprika.jpg
A small portion of the Paprika on sale in Nagyc...
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1860-Street_Stuff.jpg
Miscellenea apparently for sale.
(original - 215k)
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1870-Trams.jpg
Some orange Budapest trams about to run me over.
(original - 142k)
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1880-Nagycsarnok.jpg
Budapest's great marketplace, Nagycsarnok - fan...
(original - 273k)
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1890-Russian_Dolls.jpg
A small portion of the Russian Dolls on sale.
(original - 276k)
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1900-Accordian_Player.jpg
An accordian player getting ready to strike up.
(original - 208k)